This time last year  we’d just gotten married and returned from our honeymoon to Portland, Oregon. A few days after our return to Minneapolis, Tom ran his first marathon. This weekend we had a great time spectating the marathon by bike, enjoying the warm weather and the fall colors lining the city streets. Tom rounded off Sunday by bottling his second batch of home-brewed beer. But TODAY is the big day! Happy Birthday, Tom. You continue to be my favorite travel companion, dining partner, and my official biking and skiing coach. You are the most talented, disciplined, and kind (readers feel free to add your own adjectives in the comments) person I know.

On Saturday (August 27 for those following dates), our first full day in Stockholm, Tom and I secured two three-day City Bikes memberships at the front desk of our hotel and headed out for a loop around Södermalm. The mission? To kill time before the shops along Götgatan opened around 10 a.m.

City Bikes are similar to Minneapolis’ Nice Ride bikes. With a membership card the size of any credit card, one can approach a bike station, hold the card up to the built-in reader, and in seconds receive a bike assignment. Like a Nice Ride, City Bikes are three-speeds with front luggage space, heavy fenders, bells, and easily adjustable seats. Different were the wheels (tiny in front!), the coaster brakes on the City Bike, subscription lengths, and time limits. The three-day pass is the shortest term available for purchase (165 SEK) and breaks down to about $8 a day–much cheaper than any other form of bike rental in Stockholm, if a little more expensive than Nice Ride. And, in Stockholm it is possible to have a City Bike for three hours at a time without penalty, compared to the 30-minute limit on a Nice Ride. Later in the day, on DjurgÃ¥rden, we saw many people lounging around in the grass with a pile of black and white City Bikes around them. With the fear of Nice Ride trip fees deeply ingrained in our brains, most of our own rides were kept short, though. Arriving on Götgatan Saturday morning, we were happy to find several bike stations nearby, ride in a roomy bike lane, and learn that the main shopping area is conveniently restricted to pedestrians and cyclists only.

Also convenient is that every City Bike has space for a bag, as I was in scando-design heaven in Ordning & Reda, DesignTorget, and 10 Swedish Designers. Tip: DesignTorget opens first and is a convenient place to stop in shop while waiting for O&R and Tiogruppen to open. Tom and I each found a few souvenirs: small matching notebooks from Ordning & Reda that would become our journals for the trip (Tom’s lined, mine not), postcards and an oil-cloth bag for me from 10 Swedish Designers, and a mushroom knife and other treasures from DesignTorget. I’m sorry to say we were a little too excited about bikes (!!) and shopping (!) to take many pictures in the morning. With plans for a longer ride and more sights to see, we decided to drop our bags back at the Clarion and head out once more for lunch at BlÃ¥ Porten on DjurgÃ¥rden.

After dropping our bikes at DjurgÃ¥rden’s only City Bikes station, we set out to find BlÃ¥ Porten and locate the Vasa Museum, where we’d be getting our Viking on later that afternoon. While the restaurant isn’t far from where we left our bikes behind, we made some mistaken assumptions about its location and took a rather circuitous route there. We walked just long enough for me to become really hungry and slightly desperate before spotting BlÃ¥ Porten’s unmistakeable blue doorway.

Tom had lamb burger meatballs with potatoes and a yellow bean salad and I had boiled salmon with potato salad, carrots and a generous dollop of dill mayonnaise (these are items 1 and 2 on the menu above). I really liked my salmon, but Tom found himself wishing he’d ordered the chanterelle soup. Full of potatoes for what would be the first of many times, we sat on the patio washing it all down with a couple of beers and a lemon strawberry tart while writing postcards and making first entries in our journals:

So far, Sweden, Stockholm at least, really is everything I’d hoped for. The shops are amazing, the weather is fine, and the people are very nice…. It feels good to sit in the sun with a little wind, eat, and rest our feet. I am so thankful for City Bikes. We’re able to get around with ease while seeing the city and enjoying the air. I’m glad to be here at the end of August. The weather is ideal…. I look forward to more exploring in Stockholm and to what is yet to come…. It’s fun to be in a place where it feels like I know both nothing about it and have a certain familiarity.

As we were finishing up, a French couple asked if we were Swedish; they needed to know how to say “France” in order to address their own postcards. We may not be Swedish, but we did have a Swedish dictionary iPhone app and Tom was happy to assist. They wrote Frankrike in big letters on each card. We had the advantage of writing “USA” on all of our postcards instead of the longer, and seemingly less-often used, Förenta staterna.

We said goodbye to our franska vänner and walked to the Vasa Museum. It is nothing short of impressive–I found it hard to take a picture that did justice to the ship’s size. The museum itself has something like six levels from which to observe the ship and does an excellent job of fleshing out the historical context in which it was built as well as documenting the process of salvaging the ship.

There is a scale model on display that shows how the Vasa would have been painted on its maiden (and only) voyage and many full-sized decorative pieces recreated to match the original paint. The ring shown here is the only piece of gold found on the Vasa. It was displayed on a big velvet pillow in a vitrine with other recovered treasures. I wish I had more pictures of the artifacts on exhibit–there were cooking pots and other vessels, mittens and boots, and a game of backgammon. It is, however, very dark in there! The whole museum is cold and dark to help preserve this incredible hulk.

Back in the sun again after leaving the Vasa, we wandered in to the Nordic Museum‘s shop just before closing time to refuel on postcards and frimärken. We returned to the central city via DjugÃ¥rdsfärjan and finding no available bikes at the Slussen station we decided to walk to Mariatorget for a drink and a snack at the Hotel Rival’s café. Despite the busy time of day, the Mariatorget bike station welcomed us with several bikes for hire, and we made our way back to south Södermalm for an unremarkable vegetarian dinner (should have had meat and potatoes, I suppose!).

Tom and I said “I do.” one year ago today. If a picture is worth a thousand words, I need not write any more.

Our thanks to all who helped make this day so special, and to all who traveled to be with us in Michigan last September.

Wedding photography by Kara Purtell, final photos by Hailey Schmitz, others by Donald Boys and Camille Gerace. Thanks to you all for your fantastic eyes (and lenses).

It’s no secret to regular readers of this blog, or regular readers from the summer of 2009 at least, that I get pretty excited about going to the farmers market, especially Minneapolis’s Midtown Farmers Market. When asparagus, tomatoes, or sweet corn show up on vendors’ tables that excitement is easy enough to understand, but I’m just as jazzed by the availability of local cabbage and potatoes (the appearance of winter squash, however, continues to fill me with a sense of deep dread). That said, I do appreciate it when a vendor takes a risk on some produce that’s outside the market norm, and for that reason a new vendor – Pig’s Eye Urban Farm – has been winning my heart all summer.

It all started back in May, when I go to the market not expecting to find much more than a cup of coffee. At the Pig’s Eye stall there were green things! Garlic Mustard Greens, to be precise. Unlike the herbs and rhubarb also sold that day, these greens had not been intentionally cultivated: they were found growing on several of the lots that make up Pig’s Eye. I’m a sucker for wild foods, so of course I went home with a bag. The greens were a little tough raw in a salad (with garlic and mustard, of course), but they were perfect after a brief saute.

As the growing season went on, Pig’s Eye kept throwing me culinary curveballs. Locavores in Minnesota get used to finding new ways to appreciate the radish as it is one of the only vegetables available in the early days of summer, but Pig’s Eye took my appreciation to a much deeper level by introducing parts of the radish plant I hadn’t considered: first it was radish seed pods, the pods that develop when radishes are allowed to go to seed. Radish seed pods look like miniature snap peas and have a pretty pea-like flavor: bright green grass followed by the hint of radish tang, and increasing radish heat as you eat more and more. I loved them raw, and they worked well in a stir-fry too. Also stir-fryable were radish blossoms, delicate white flowers. The flavor was similar to the seed pods, green with a hint of radish. And of course, Pig’s Eye was selling radishes, and even had spicy ones, which are more or less unheard of these days.

I’ve appreciated the way Pig’s Eye kept me guessing all season, and also their more traditional offerings: their kale caught Rick Nelson’s attention, and they’ve had fine multicolored beets, heirloom tomatoes, and the other seasonal goodies one expects throughout the summer. Last weekend, though, I got the best surprise of all: there, front and center at the Pig’s Eye table, was a basket overflowing with bright green cones of hops. Cascade hops, to be precise. This was totally unexpected – I have never seen hops at the farmers market before, and it was my understanding that those in search of fresh hops either had to grow their own or make special orders from the Pacific Northwest. To be able to pick them up at the farmers market – what exciting times we live in!

What can you make with hops? You can pickle them – I once had a burger with pickled hops on it, though the memory is not a pleasant one. According to Nathan, the Pig’s Eye proprietor, hops make for an interesting tea. Or you can go the obvious route: make beer. That’s what I did: after a quick ride out to Midwest Supplies for, uh, supplies, I spent the rest of the afternoon brewing away in the kitchen and taking in that fresh hop aroma.

In the days leading up to our trip to Sweden–we left August 25 and returned Labor Day–I started to panic that I had built up Swedishness a little too much in my head. I worked at the American Swedish Institute for a year when Tom and I first moved to Minneapolis, so I know my fair share of Minnesota-Swedophiles. I might be one. This wasn’t just going to be a trip to Ingebretsen’s or the annual Marimekko sale at Finnstyle, though. Swedish classes over the 2008—09 winter term at ASI gave us enough of the language to ask questions but not understand the answers. How would we fare? Tom and I had never been to Northern Europe before – and this would be 10 full days in Sweden (with one day in Helsinki, Finland in the middle).

When we arrived in Stockholm on our first Friday there, my worries went away. Getting around was effortless. We got off the airplane, walked through the terminal (already admiring the design of even the airport eateries), and purchased tickets for the Arlanda Express, a high-speed train that would take us to Stockholm City in just 20 minutes. Arriving in Stockholm Central we switched to the Tunnelbana, taking the green line to Skanstull, the closest stop to the Hotel Clarion, our home for the next four days. Exiting the train, we were greeted with arrows pointing us toward… you guessed it… the Hotel Clarion. Around the corner, through a short tunnel to get us across the intersection above, then up one set of stairs the arrows pointed. Emerging from the Tunnelbana system onto the streets of south Södermalm, we saw the Clarion not 100 yards away. We arrived at the Clarion a couple hours early for check-in at 3 p.m., so we walked bleary-eyed down Ringvägen toward Renstiernas Gata, a street I’d noted for a tiny Japanese boutique and organic grocery store. On the way we stopped at Lilla Caféet (translation: the small café) to orient and share a fika of kanelbullar and and kaffe (pictured above and again below).

Refreshed by coffee and sweets, I led Tom on a walk up Renstiernas Gata and back to the hotel. We stopped at Kiki to admire handmade Japanese paper books, ceramics, and textiles (very similar to contemporary Swedish pattern designs). Next we walked what seemed to a tired-Tom like a very long way to Cajsa Warg, a beautifully styled grocery store with plenty of designy food packaging and culinary treats to eyeball. The perfect place to outfit a picnic.

Having reached Cajsa Warg we turned back and made it to the Clarion for check-in. After all the necessary details of settling in to the hotel, we ventured out again for a light dinner at Reggev Hummus & Espressobar where we ordered hummus merguez and a jar of lemonana to drink.

That night we had a not-so-quiet walk along Hammarby Slussväg and Anna Lindhagens väg near the water while Stockholm music fans on a budget covered the area’s hills and pathways to be in range of Popaganda, a two-day music festival with Arcade Fire headlining Friday (though we were in bed by the time they played). This first night’s walk was nice to take in after a long day of travel. I liked seeing the boats, the bright colors of the little cottages, the gardens and the people going by on foot and by bike. A highlight was this sign for cyclists:

Du som cyklar tänk pÃ¥ oss… You who bike, think of us!