Archive for April, 2009

Make Some Tarator

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

As far as dips go, if it has raw garlic you can count me in. This started with guacamole and continued right on through to hummus and beyond. My most recent discovery is the Turkish dip tarator.

Tarator consists of almonds ground with olive oil, water or broth, lemon juice, salt, pepper and garlic. As with any dish featuring Allium sativum au naturel, the garlic is the strongest flavor, but the almonds also contribute a pretty strong flavor of their own: that mixture of cream and nuts that is almond. The key to bringing this flavor out is to use enough salt; add salt until you taste almonds. The almonds also give the sauce a surprising amount of body with a thick, whipped texture.  This sauce is strikingly white, so consider using white pepper to preserve that.

Apparently tarator is eaten with seafood in Turkey, particularly fried seafood. The recipe I used was intended to go with fried mussels. Instead, I served it with Moorish lamb meatballs, substituting it for a different almond-based sauce. Putting the tarator with food helps to mellow the strong garlic flavor which, tasted by itself, can be a little intimidating, even to diehard garlic fans.

Happy Easter

Here’s the recipe, from Ana Sortun’s Spice: Flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean:

  • 1/4 c Olive Oil
  • 1/2 c water or mussel poaching liquid or what have you
  • 2 t minced garlic
  • 1/2 c blanched whole almonds
  • 1 t lemon juice
  • Salt and Pepper

Put olive oil, water, garlic, almonds and lemon juice in blender or food processor (NB: Sortun says to add them in that order which I guess would make a difference if you use a blender, which she recommends, but not so much in a food processor, which I used). Puree for at least 3 minutes so the mixture is completely smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Updating Apt. 203… a New Shower Curtain

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009

When I painted our bathroom orange last summer we purchased a new shower curtain at IKEA for $8, pictured below center. I wanted something brighter than the brown one we’d been using from Tom’s old apartment (you can see this partially below) to match the crazy brightness of the walls I’d created. Perhaps too crazy…? I could go on about whether the choice to paint the bathroom orange was good or bad, but that would take a while. As Tom has said, at least it doesn’t look like a prison cell any longer:

Sickly lime green trim. Just what I've always wanted.  Self inflicted lead poisoning.

I was reasonably happy with the orange and brown IKEA shower curtain… it seemed to tie the bathroom together, and I even learned that the plastic content is on the green side (via Apartment Therapy’s post). It seems IKEA is committed to using 100% PVC free plastics. So everything was great. That is, until the proximity of the plastic shower curtain to the radiator caused it to burn and melt mid-way through the winter. In the photo on the right below you can see just how much the shower curtain and the radiator rubbed elbows.

$8 IKEA shower curtain  Can you see the radiator? Can you see why this might be a problem?

The burn in the shower curtain above happened about two months ago. It almost drove me to deciding that this was a sign to get rid of the orange paint (again, I go back and forth between hating/liking this), but instead I used the opportunity as an excuse to buy a new shower curtain. This one is by Dwell Studio, a company I’ve been a fan of for a long time. Dwell is best known for their colorful, contemporary bed linens, and their prints for home, kids, and baby are well worth a look. As you may have guessed by now, I am pretty smitten with this new shower curtain. I think Tom might actually like it, too. At the very least, it’s nice to return to a lightweight, cotton curtain that moves freely and won’t MELT on me. It doesn’t hurt that the colors are perfect. It’s even possible I might stop hating the orange…

Dwell Studio shower curtain (not $8)  Natural light from the window...Alternate view  100% COTTON Wash warm. Do not tumble dry.

When new is worse than old.

Monday, April 13th, 2009

I take pictures of the apartment periodically, usually because I’m planning on blogging about something and sometimes because I’d like to share the space via email or my Picasa gallery. Every so often, I go through these photos. What I enjoy about them is that they become this archive of our apartment… what it looked like before I got rid of my sister’s desk, what the wall looked like without such-and-such picture hanging there, etc.

This is a shot of our sink when we first moved in. Totally pristine.

Sink

Today I took down something I’d hung (I use the word hung loosely… in this case there was packing tape involved) in the kitchen and breathed a sigh of relief. Yes. It DID look better without that there. Tom’s take? “No comment.” This time, I could take it. I agreed.

A picture of the rice sack-like hanging in place…

Sink with "My Cup of Tea" hanging

Now for the sigh of relief…

Sink without hanging

As for the pot rack? So far I’m not looking back on that one. Hopefully I’ll have more to share about the sink soon… it was recently featured on Apartment Therapy Boston’s “Good Questions” as I’m working on a sink skirt and needed some advice. You’ll hear about it as soon as I find some suitable fabric!

Bread Math

Monday, April 13th, 2009

Boules resting

Many factors affect the way bread turns out: what kind of flour is used, if and how long the bread gets kneaded, the amount of salt, natural yeast versus canned yeast, the ambient conditions, etc.  Of these, none is more influential than the ratio of water to flour. Bakers express this ratio as a baker’s percentage, which compares the mass of water in a dough to the mass of flour. For example, a dough consisting of 500 grams of flour and 300 grams of water has a baker’s percentage of 60%. The level of hydration of flour makes a big difference in terms of texture: dense bagels might be as low as 57% while chewy ciabatta with an open, airy crumb comes to 80% or more. A French-style baguette is around 65%. Although there are technical differences in how each of these breads are made, their varying water contents explain most of the difference in their texture.

Since water content has such a fundamental influence on bread, one of the most important ways to master bread making is to understand and manipulate the amount of water in your dough. With this in mind, I created a bread calculator as a tool for adjusting water content. One need only decide how much bread to make (the mass of the dough) and what percentage of water to use, which is where the fun experimentation comes in. Generally, the higher the percentage of water the bigger the crumb and the chewier the bread, but the dough will also be more difficult to work with and less shapeable. Going in the opposite direction makes denser breads that more easily hold their shape. I am always amazed at how varying the water even a little bit can make a dramatic difference.

Why a bread calculator, instead of say, a recipe? For most of my life, I have been told that while in cooking one can be fast and loose with measurements and improvisations, baking requires precision; slight variations in any ingredient amount could spell disaster. Taking this for truth, I dutifully made bread according to recipes in a few very good bread cookbooks. Sure, I noticed that most recipes were remarkably similar, but I assumed that there was some kind of alchemy at work and I should just follow the directions.

After working for three months in a professional kitchen and gaining a lot of confidence, I have come to rely on recipes less and less. This applied immediately to my cooking, where I had always assumed that improvisational ability would come with experience, but eventually spilled over into my bread baking. When I ran out of yeast and had to substitute some sourdough starter in a recipe, it began to dawn on me that there was also a lot of leeway in bread, if not quite as much as in a stir-fry. As long as I had water, flour, salt and some kind of leavener, bread would inevitably result. With this discovery came a new-found freedom: I knew what kind of bread I wanted to make, how its dough would feel when it was ready; I just needed to understand the influence of water content and experiment with it until I got what I was looking for. So I put the cookbooks away (I do not disparage cookbooks: they are what got me to this point) and got out a spreadsheet. After making many batches of bread based on ad-hoc calculations, I created this calculator to avoid having to remember the formulas I was using. And thus, bread math and the bread calculator were born. 

To be honest, I created the calculator mainly for my own use and understanding (there are others online). But if it is useful to you, feel free to use it as well. You can always make bread by feel, but working out the numbers gives a greater feeling of control, not to mention better consistency.

For those of you interested in what’s going on inside the calculator, here’s the math behind bread (please keep in mind that I was a liberal arts major and this is the best I could do):

In a bread using a starter, there are four known quantities we can input: the amount (mass) of the starter to be used, the percentage of hydration of that starter, the amount (mass) of dough we want to end up with and the percentage of hydration for that dough. We want to find out the amount of flour and the amount of water we need to add.

All this information about the bread is contained in these two equations:

Mass of Flour in Starter + Mass of Flour Added + Mass of Water in Starter + Mass of Water Added = Mass of Final Dough

and

(Mass of Water in Starter + Mass of Water Added)/(Mass of Flour in Starter + Mass of Flour Added) = Percentage Hydr. of Dough

The first thing is to deal with the starter, so we know how much flour and how much water the starter is contributing. The starter is represented in the following equations:

Mass of Flour in Starter + Mass of Water in Starter = Mass of Starter  or F + W = MS

and

Mass of Water in Starter/Mass of Flour in Starter = Pct Hydration of Starter or W/F = PS

We’re interested in solving for the two variables F and W, and since there are two equations it’s very simple to substitute one in for the other. 

Solving the first for W gives us W = MS – F, which plugs into the second as (MS-F)/F = PS. 

Solving for F:

MS-F = FPS

MS = FPS + F

MS = F(PS+1)

MS/(PS+1) = F

So using the given values for MS and PS we can calculate the amount of flour in the starter, F. With F known it’s easy enough to return to the first equation and calculate W. That takes care of the starter.

Back to the final bread: we know the mass of bread we’d like to end up with (M), the hydration percentage of that dough (P), the amount of flour in the starter (F) and the amount of water in the starter (W). We’re interested in the amount of flour to add (f) and the amount of water to add (w). Returning to the first two equations with these symbols we have:

W + w + F + f = M

and

(W + w) / (F + f) = P

Two equations and two variables! Solving for f:

w = M – f – F – W

(W + M – f – F – W)/(F+f) = P

M – f – F  = PF + Pf

M – F – PF = Pf+f

M – F – PF = f(P+1)

(M-F-PF)/(P+1) = f

Since we already know M, F and P it is easy enough to calculate f. And w is just M-MS-f! And there you have it!

Bread Calculator

Monday, April 13th, 2009

This form allows you to calculate the amount of flour and water needed to make bread doughs at various percentages you choose. Please refer to the bread math post for a detailed discussion of why and how I got here.

If you are planning to use a starter, for Starter Mass enter the amount of starter you want to use and for Starter % the percentage of water (refer to Bread Math for explanation of baker’s percentage). If you aren’t planning to use starter, leave Starter Mass blank or enter 0. The final dough mass is the amount of bread you want to have; most loaves of bread I have seen seem to fall between 1 and 2 pounds. Dough % is the percentage of hydration of the final dough. This is where the fun comes in!  Try playing with various amounts and see what a huge difference it makes on the crumb of your bread. Remember, there is  no magic bread ratio but rather the ratio is the key to determining the kind of bread.

Example: Here’s my standard loaf of bread, and how I used these calculations to arrive at it. Because of the size of my oven and my household’s bread needs, I know I want to bake three 1.5# loaves of bread. This means I will need 4.5# of Final Dough Mass, which is 72 oz (16oz/lb * 4.5lb = 72 oz). I also make bread with a natural yeast starter. Whenever I refresh my starter, I add equal masses of water and flour, so I know my starter’s percentage is 100%. The Starter Mass I use varies depending on how much starter I have around, but I usually pick 8 oz. I have yet to determine the effects of drastic variations in starter use. With my Starter Mass, Starter % and Final Dough Mass decided, it’s just a matter of deciding on the Dough %. Although I continue to tweak this, I have had a lot of success with dough at 68% hydration, so I’ll enter that and hit calculate. The calculator tells me that my final dough will require 38.86 oz of flour and 25.14 oz of water. My scale’s smallest unit is 1/8 oz so we’ll call that 38 7/8 oz and 25 1/8 oz. So, in the kitchen, I measure my starter into the bowl, then cover it with 39 oz of flour and 25 oz of water. I also add salt. Salt can be factored into this calculation as a percentage of flour (bakers do this) but my scale is not accurate enough to measure this little salt so I always just wing it. I usually add about a Tablespoon to 4.5# of dough. With the salt added, you’re ready to mix, knead and otherwise proceed as normal.

Note that this form is unit agnostic, you can use grams or ounces or metric tons. Percentages should be in the 0-100 format, although you can go above 100%. Don’t type in any units or symbols, it will confuse the calculator!

Have fun! Bake bread!